Ancient Egypt to Lady Gaga - A history of the use of wigs through the ages

Ancient Egypt to Lady Gaga

The History of Wigs

Historically, humans have shown a preoccupation with hair (or the lack of it) for millennia. In ancient Egypt (as early as 4,000BC) there is evidence of the use of wigs and hair styling tools by men and women. 

Myth & Magic of Hair

Hair has been a focus in myth, magic, and folklore. Rapunzel lets down her hair for her prince. Delilah cuts Samson’s hair to render him helpless. Slavic legend credits hair with magical power. 
http://thebirdsnestnzshop.blogspot.com/2014/03/the-wonderful-hair-slavonic-folk-tale.html

Hair Work in Jewelry

In Denmark, at Rosensborg’s palace there is a bracelet of precious metal with a simple braided lock of hair, a gift from King Christian IV (1577-1648) to his queen. 

During the following century memorial jewelry made with hair was common. For example, rings commemorating the executed King Charles I of England were circulated among his faithful supporters. In most of the 19th century, and a few decades into the 20th century, mourning brooches included a locket of hair of the lost loved one.

In a Swedish book of proverbs one can read that “rings and bracelets of hair increase love” (Vadstena stads tankebok). A locket is a pendant that opens to reveal a space used for storing a photograph or other small item such as a curl (or lock) of hair (hence the name.) 

Hair in Art and Music

Hair has been, and continues to be a major focus in artwork. 

There are songs and sonnets about hair. 

http://thebirdsnestnzshop.blogspot.com/2014/02/hair-lyrics-of-theme-song-from-famous.html

http://thebirdsnestnzshop.blogspot.com/2014/02/lyrics-to-san-francisco-be-sure-to-wear.html

And throughout the ages, various religions and other groups have considered hair to be sufficiently important that they regulate the length of the hair of their congregation, its style and/or and how it is covered. The hair is traditionally kept long in some cultures; and turbans or equivalent are worn to help keep the hair clean and out of the way.

An example of a distinctive hair style is the wearing of dreadlocks which is closely associated with Rastafarians. Rastas maintain that dread locks are supported by Leviticus 21:5 ("They shall not make baldness upon their head, neither shall they shave off the corner of their beard, nor make any cuttings in the flesh.") and the Nazirite law in Numbers 6:5 ("All the days of the vow of his separation there shall no razor come upon his head: until the days be fulfilled, in the which he separateth himself unto the Lord, he shall be holy, and shall let the locks of the hair of his head grow."). However while Rastafarians chose dreadlocks; some groups in other cultures keep their hair long, but cover it.

Many birds, particularly the Birds of Paradise species dramatically alter their feathers to attract the opposite sex; to serve as a warning; to protect themselves; or to use as camouflage. Arguably human beings have used their hair (and substitutes for hair) for similar purposes throughout the ages.

The way hair is worn affords a powerful identification of social, economic, intellectual, and sexual status. Even more than natural hair, wigs have been used for medicinal reasons, disguise, and ceremony, as well as badges for the elite. From ancient Egyptian queens to current members of the British court, wigs are not just decoration, but crucial elements of identity and community. 

A History of Wigs

We've talked about the importance attributed to hair which is common across many, if not all cultures. If hair is important, then it is to be expected that lack of hair may be of concern to some individuals. And in other instances, individuals, like birds of Paradise might wish to use their hair or a substitute for their natural hair for effect.

The word wig first appeared in the English language around 1675. A periwig (short for peruke) was the name given to the particular long, curly wigs that became popular after Charles II was returned to the throne in 1660. It was typically a powdered wig gathered at the back of the neck with a ribbon and was usually worn by men.

However the use of wigs predated the use of the actual word by quite a margin.

Wigs in ancient Egypt

Egyptian artifacts and wall painting on ancient tombs reveal wigs were very common. Most Egyptians found it easier to shave their hair than to keep it clean and free of pests in the hot Egyptian sun. However, because Egyptians did not think looking bald was aesthetically pleasing, most Egyptians, except for priests and laborers, donned a wide variety of wigs. Wigs did not try to simulate real hair, and typically consisted of assorted sizes of braids set with beeswax or something similar.

While all Egyptian classes wore wigs, wigs also served as a class barrier, and it was not unusual for upper-class women to own several large, decorative wigs in different styles. The most expensive wigs were made of human hair, but could also be made from wool or palm leaf fibers or even pure silver. Only noble women could wear long wigs that were separated into three parts, called a “goddress”.  While dark brown hair was sometimes worn, wigs were also dyed various colors such as red, blue, and green.

Wigs in some other ancient cultures

Wigs were popular in ancient Greece, both for personal use and in the theater (the color and style of wigs disclosed the nature of individual characters). In Imperial Rome, fashionable women wore blond or red-haired wigs made from hair from the heads of Germanic captives, and Caesar used a wig and a laurel wreath to hide his baldness. Both Hannibal and Nero wore wigs as disguises.Hannibal (247-183 B.C.) is credited with having two types of wigs: one to improve his appearance and one to disguise himself in battle. 

Other ancient cultures, including the Assyrians,Phoenicians, Greeks and Romans, also used wigs as an everyday fashion. Wigs were rarely worn in ancient China or Japan except by actors performing in the traditional theaters of China and Japan (Noh or Kabuki) and by certain types of female entertainers such as the Japanese geisha or the Korean Kisaeng.

Wigs in Europe 

In the Middle Ages, it was custom that young women wore their hair long, whereas married women covered it with a scarf or a cap. This was with reference to the Apostle Paul [First Letter to the Corinthians] as a sign of a woman’s dependence on her husband. (Only he had the right to see her head uncovered).  During the reign of Stephen in the

middle third of the twelfth century, wigs were introduced in England. It was from the beginning of the Renaissance [1400 to 1600] that the female hairstyle gained again in importance and women's hair was no longer completely hidden. It was often put up and arranged with the help of hairpieces and braids.

By the end of the sixteenth century, a great deal of false hair was used in Europe. By the beginning of Queen Elizabeth’s

reign (1558), wigs were becoming an indispensable part of a lady’s wardrobe and increasingly popular with men. In England, women’s wigs were often dyed red as a compliment to Queen Elizabeth who had natural red hair (and at least 80 wigs). Marguerite de Valois (1553-1615) was rumored to have kept blonde servants to provide hair for her wigs. Catherine de’ Medici (1519-1589) also helped popularize the wig and paid a woman for her daughter’s hair. And Mary of Scotland (1542-1587), who had an even larger collection than her predecessor Elizabeth, preferred the winged or horned style wig.

The seventeenth century was one of dramatic change for men. Though the Puritan Parliament faction (called “Roundheads” for their short, somber haircuts) railed against wigs, and some Puritan pastors even refused to allow anyone wearing a wig into the church, this century saw the widespread use of wigs for men.

The French had a major role in the rise and fall of the popularity of wigs in Europe.

The French King Louis XIII lost his hair as a young man. In 1630, embarrassed by his baldness, Louis XIII began wearing a wig made of hair sewn onto a linen foundation. Wigs became fashionable, increasing in popularity during the reign of Louis XIV, who not only wore them to hide his baldness but also to make himself seem taller by means of towering hair. As a compliment to the Sun King, all his courtiers began to wear yellow wigs. Men and women (who were more likely to wear extensions), both old and young began to copy him.

During his reign, the Allonge wig for men was invented and became an important part of every garment. At this time, wigs were mainly made of human or animal hair. Under Louis XIV, the French Royal House employed 48 wig makers at court. Later, in old age, Louis wore an enormous wig, thickly covered with perfumed and white powder.

A famous hairstyle - the Fontange, (which incorporated rows of starched lace in the hair - was named after a mistress of King Louis XIV). The Fontange style with the liberal use of hair accessories resulted in an increase in popularity of the wearing of wigs and hair pieces by wealthy and aristocratic women.  There were countless variations of the Fontange style, based on the original. These were created with the use of hairpieces and false locks.

With wigs virtually obligatory garb for men with social rank, wigmakers gained considerable prestige. A wigmakers' guild was established in France in 1665, a development soon copied elsewhere in Europe. Their job was a skilled one as 17th century wigs were extraordinarily elaborate, covering the back and shoulders and flowing down the chest; not surprisingly, they were also extremely heavy and often uncomfortable to wear. Such wigs were expensive to produce. The best examples were made from natural human hair. The hair of horses and goats was often used as a cheaper alternative.

In the late eighteenth century, another French King - Louis XVI wore wigs to hide his baldness, and wigs were very very fashionable throughout France; and wigs and hair pieces became a status symbol amongst women as well as men. The modern technique of ventilating (attaching hairs to a net foundation) was invented in this environment.A series of other improvements followed rapidly, including knotting techniques, fitting methods, and the use of silk net foundations.

Women in the 18th century did not often wear full wigs; but wore extravagant coiffures

supplemented by artificial hair or hair from other sources. The wealthy and aristocratic wore amazing creations on their heads constituting whole compositions from birds (origin of birds nest hair), statues and even mini gardens, with small artificial trees. Marie Antoinette's A-la Belle Poule hairdo with frigate belongs to this period too. The creation of such a hairdo could take all day, and was worn for several days, sometimes even a week.

The enormous popularity of wigs in England declined markedly following the French Revolution as they were associated with the aristocracy, (many of the French aristocracy having lost their heads) - and it was not considered to be prudent to be too ostentatious. During the reign of George III of England, wigs lost popularity - except for individuals who continued to wear them as a symbols of their professions (e.g., judges, doctors, and clergymen).

Powdering of Wigs

Near 1715, wigs started to be powdered. During this period, wigs were often made of Yak hair. The original hair color was natural white and with the help of starch (such as rice powder) or Cyprus powder (powdered reindeer moss which was used for retention of scent to give the wig a pleasant odor) wigs could be colored white, blue or pink. Homes had special rooms for the "toilette", where they arranged and powdered their artificial hair. To powder wigs, people used special dressing gowns, and covered their faces with a cone of thick paper.

Powdered wigs (men) and powdered natural hair with supplemental hairpieces (women) became essential for full dress occasions and continued in use until almost the end of the 18th century.

From 1770, women wigs were being made taller (they could be almost a meter high) and more sophisticated, especially in France. Men's wigs were generally white, whereas women's wigs were often of pastel colors, like pink, light violet or blue. Depending on how wigs were ornamented, they could reveal a person's profession or social status.

By the 1780s, young men were setting a fashion trend by lightly powdering their natural hair, as women had already done from the 1770s onwards. After 1790, both wigs and powder were reserved for older, more conservative men, and were in use by ladies being presented at court. After 1790 English women seldom powdered their hair. 

Wig Makers

The success of wigs resulted in a demand of new type of professionals; wig makers and designers - who also cleaned and repaired wigs, refreshing the curls with powder and fragrances. Guilds of wig makers were organized, and they were required to pay a fee and to take an exam to show aptitude to work in the wig profession. 

High Cost of Wigs

Wealthier people could afford expensive wig designers and better materials. They were made in general with human hair, but also with hair from horses or goats. The countess of Matignon, in France, paid to the famous hairdresser Baulard 24,000 livres a year to make her new headdresses every day of the week.

Large wigs were considered an investment and were often willed along with other valuables. Those who could not afford a wig wore their own hair to look as much as possible like a wig. Not surprisingly, wig thieves emerged, some specializing in robbing passengers in hackney coaches. They would cut an opening on the back of the carriage while on horse back, grab the passengers wig and disappear.

Taxed out of Fashion

In 1795, the British government levied a tax on hair powder of one guinea per year. This tax effectively caused the demise of both the fashion for wigs and powder.

From the late 17th to early 19th centuries, European armies wore uniforms more or less imitating the civilian fashions of the time, but with militarized additions (typically two hairrolls on the sides). As part of that uniform, officers wore wigs more suited to the drawing rooms of Europe than its battlefields. The late 17th century saw officers wearing full-bottomed natural-coloured wigs, but the civilian change to shorter, powdered styles with pigtails in the early 18th century saw officers adopting similar styles. 

Let them eat Brioche - the drop in popularity of wigs after the French Revolution

During the early eighteenth century, wigs continued to be popular and, in 1715, there were even riots in Caen, France, resulting from the fact that badly needed flour for bread was being used by aristocrats to adorn their wigged heads. The death of Louis XIV in 1715, however, led to the decline of extravagant wigs and fashion began to favor less pretentious wigs other than those used in court.

Wigs worn by the judiciary in Court

In Britain, most Commonwealth nations, and the Republic of Ireland special wigs are also worn by barristers, judges, and certain parliamentary and municipal or civic officials as a symbol of the office. Hong Kong barristers and judges continue to wear wigs as part of court dress as an influence from their former jurisdiction of the Commonwealth of Nations. In July 2007, judges in New South Wales, Australia voted to discontinue the wearing of wigs in the NSW Court of Appeal. New Zealand lawyers and judges have ceased to wear wigs except for special ceremonial occasions such as openings of Parliament or the calling of newly qualified barristers to the bar.

The Revival of Wigs as a Fashion Accessory

The fashion, entertainment and movie industries are credited with the revival of wigs as a fashion accessory. It commenced with the rise of "Haute Coiffure" - in the early 1900s. Antoni "Antek" Cierplikowski (1884 – 1976) became the world's first celebrity hairdresser when he opened the salon Antoine de Paris in Paris and became known as Monsieur Antoine. 

To the right is Josephine Baker, the American dancer in Vogue Magazine 15 Dec 1935 - with hair by "Antoine."

In 1915, wigs made a comeback when the hair stylist Carita designed wigs for Givenchy’s models as a gimmick for a Paris fashion show. When Life magazine reported the story, a new growth in interest in Flapper style and other wigs began. The fad for wigs blossomed in the late 1950s, and by 1963 the wig industry once again had become well established. This was partly because better quality, more natural looking wigs had come available at prices more ordinary people could afford. In addition to full wigs, false hairpieces (sometimes called “wig bands,” or hair that was mounted on a band) became increasingly popular.

For the less wealthy and those who could not afford to buy the more expensive wigs; wigs were available to rent as “pay-as-you-wear.” 

Wigs generally were more readily available - and no longer restricted the wealthy, famous models, entertainers and movie stars. Wigs were also worn by ordinary people as a fashion accessory or to cover up “hair problems”.

Women found wigs incredibly convenient. Instead of hours in curlers under a hair dryer hood - they could simply drop their wigs off at the hair dresser and pick them up later. 

The days are over when only royalty and the social elite could afford the time and the money to maintain their hair in the latest fashion. The evolution of new fibers has resulted in synthetic hair that looks and feels similar to real hair. This, along with the creative hair styles of people in the entertainment industry has insured that wigs are very definitely in style.

While the extraordinary (but highly impractical and expensive) haute couture outfits that grace the catwalks during fashion shows serve more as an inspiration to most of us, rather than anything we could afford (let alone fit into) - haute couture and haute coiffure are forms of art which we can all enjoy.

Lady Gaga's extraordinary wig styles and headwear are a reminder that Haute Coiffure style wigs are also an art form - one that requires imagination and skill to create (not to mention a skilled entertainer to perform with them on). Haute Coiffure wigs and hairdos, like craftily constructed Haute Couture outfits - are the human equivalent of a Bird of Paradise display.

That's entertainment.

For the rest of us, there are marvelous modern wigs available that can be worn for practical reasons, or to make a statement, or to create a total look as a fashionista, or just for fun - that don't cost an arm or a leg to buy - and can be worn without a lot of drama.

In the twenty-first century, the use of wigs is limited only by the wearer’s imagination.

If you are interested in a reasonably priced fashion wig please visit our shop:

The Birds Nest NZ Shop
http://thebirdsnestnz.com